Friday, March 2, 2007
Letter from China
Two weeks in China is enough to give you a taste, but also enough to leave you hungry -- and I didn't even try the canine stir fry. Due to a busy schedule that encompassed seven cities in 14 days, there were only two occasions that permitted a night at the theater. Both of those outings were spent at Chinese opera. I explored two of the five or so varities that constitute the ancient artform: Cantonese and Peking/Beijing. While in Hong Kong -- a city whose manners have been ruined by a few centuries of Western domination -- we ventured out of the downtown area to a theater that offers soap opera confections set to a percussion-heavy score. The most fascinating thing about Cantonese opera is that it is attended by elderly female groupies who arrive early to purchase large bouquets of flowers, which they place on stairs on either side of the stage to honor their favorite singers. I couldn't tell you the name of the opera I saw, nor could I determine the plot since there were no supertitles or English language program, but I can say that the time flew by when I started pretending that the actors onstage were performing an old episode of "I Love Lucy." It's just too bad that none of them were redheads.
In Beijing, we opted for more touristy fare. Three scenes from popular operas with titles such as "Goddess of Heaven Scattering Flowers" and "Presenting A Pearl on the Rainbow Bridge" that combined music, dance, acrobatics, and kung fu. Like Cantonese opera, the Beijing variety doesn't compare to the Western tradition in tone or harmony. It has to be experienced at least once, and despite the jarring sound, I left wanting more.
Also, the Chinese audiences don't hesitate to burp, eat, drink, talk, or take bathroom breaks during performances. They'd feel right at home seeing a Broadway show.
Bonus: The audience is invited to watch the actors prepare for the performance in the 30 minutes prior to curtain while they apply makeup and get into costume.
Regret: Not seeing "Cats" in Tokyo during a two-day layover.